Vancouver Adventures... and Beyond

In a few days we head back to visit New Zealand, so we thought we had better have "done something" in case people ask us what Vancouver's like. Saying that everything seemed great within the 20-block radius of our house didn't seem like it would meet everyone's expectations!

Since our last blog we have had a busy social calendar that has included some sight-seeing. We probably waited until the right time because the rain has cleared in the last two weeks (at last!) and we have had some beautiful days of sunshine and spring flowers - great weather to explore two of the top tourist attractions in Vancouver: Capilano Suspension Bridge and Stanley Park, and also to venture "south of the border".

Capilano Bridge spans the Capilano Valley in North Vancouver. Once you cross the swaying bridge (from the east side, where there is a cafe and souvenir shop) you enter the fir and pine forest, where shady paths meander through the trees and you can find lookout points across the valley. We also enjoyed the Treetops walk, a pathway of (not-so-wobbly) suspension bridges between the trees about 15 metres above the ground. We took plenty of pictures so you can check them out by clicking the 'web album' link on the right-hand side of this page. You'll also spot our friends, Claire and April, in the photos because April was kind enough to drive us all out there. Thanks April!

A few days later April, Claire and Holly joined us to explore Stanley Park, a forested park right next to downtown Vancouver. We wandered around Lost Lagoon (spot the turtles, racoon and squirrels in our photos via the link), went through the rhododendron garden, past the playground (via the kiosk for refreshments) and then took one of the many trails through the forest, stopping at the rose garden, close to where we had started. It was a lovely afternoon... and we were very tired by the time we finished!

Last Monday, Fay ( a fellow Kiwi who goes to our church) invited us to the U.S. for the day, as she wanted some company when she drove down for a music lesson. It was great to go beyond the rolling plateaus of Vancouver, out past Delta (aptly named!) and, after a wait, cross the border to Bellingham, in the state of Washington. Here is a picture of the Peace Arch at the border crossing. Fay dropped us at a rather large mall while she went to her lesson. The weather was beautiful so we took some pictures of the mountains in both countries. We had lunch, spent a student-sized portion of money, and then made our way back to Canada. We crossed the border quickly (compared to the earlier crossing!) and joined the evening traffic back into Vancouver. Another busy day.

The next day we helped Holly to repaint her kitchen, living area and hallway (along with some other friends) in preparation for the arrival of her new housemates. We definitely earned all the cookies and yummy lunch Holly provided. We also discovered some muscles we'd forgotten we had! It was a fun day and the results looked pretty good (in our humble opinions!)

Since exams we've also had a bunch of smaller get-togethers with friends: watching the Cricket World Cup (abysmal!); a stamping workshop hosted by Bron's friend, Jodie; a fabric-hunting trek with Holly; dinner with Kev & Esther, and Fay, Bruce, Samuel & Andrew (with a visit to the gorgeous Queen Elizabeth Park); some coffee/hot chocolate drinking (with more in the next few days); and the rapid consumption of novels and magazines from the library (now that the textbooks have been put aside for a while).

On Wednesday we'll be winging our way back to New Zealand for 3 months of time with family, work, and catching up with a different set of friends! Now that the temperatures in Vancouver, Wellington and Palmerston North seem to be (on average) about the same now, the adjustment shouldn't be too bad: we don't come from blazing sun to snow drifts this time! And we think we have plenty to share about Vancouver, now that we've ventured beyond the twenty blocks!

The cakes says it all...

Yes! "Thank God!" It's over! Six reading logs, four exams, four essays, three mid-term tests, three book reviews, one poetry anthology, one position paper, one comparative book study, one picture book study, many Gobbets (ask us about these sometime!), and a lot of reading now complete... we can breathe a big sigh of relief. Yes - Praise God! - it's all over... at least for now!

Despite the work and some of the trials, we both feel the last three months at Regent have been some of the most rewarding since we've been married.

To celebrate the completion of our first term at Regent, we had a lovely lunch today with our friends Clive, Michelle, Beng and Le Wan. Le Wan brought the cake, complete with the inscription, which says it all.

Now that we're done, we have a bit of time to do some exploring, before heading back to NZ in early May.

P.S. I'm (Nathan) starting to make good on a promise to some of you to post some of my sermons on our blog. With a little bit of techie advice from Sam McGuire, I've worked out how to do this by linking our blog to another website. I've got one up already, and hope to post a few more over the coming days (I'm listening to them first, to make sure I'm not posting any 'sensitive' info). Some of the early recordings are pretty scratchy, but they get better as they go.

Here's the link http://www.orbitfiles.com/download/NICMcLellan. Password: kermit. Let me know if there's any problems. I've also put a link on the right-hand side of the blog.

All roads lead to Rome…

The semester is nearly at an end, with exams to sit in less than two weeks time, so I thought I’d reflect a little on the semester which is about to come to an end.

No doubt you’ve all heard the expression: All roads lead to Rome. This little phrase pretty much sums up my first semester living in Vancouver and studying at Regent College. Although, the expression does need to be altered slightly. It should read: All roads lead to a letter written to Rome. And, in particular, a certain portion of a letter written to Rome.

Within weeks of arriving in Vancouver, and starting at Regent, Mum called with some bad news: Dad was in hospital and he’d been diagnosed with cancer. After managing (just) to hold it together on the phone, I told Bronwyn the news, and then broke down and cried. That night lying in bed, worrying about Dad and with our plans up in the air, I started thinking about some words written to a group in Rome.

I’ve had many memorable conversations this semester. One of the great things about being at Regent is you’re surrounded by a lot of creative, thoughtful and intelligent people, so there’s never really a dull conversation! And several of these conversations have centred on a letter written to some people living in Rome.

Finally – there are other examples but I’ll stop here – I’ve been grieving a bit this semester, for a little church congregation, that I lead and poured my heart into for a couple of years but, for a variety of reasons, was closed down a couple of months ago. All that effort, was it worth it? Did I really make a difference? Where do I find answers to these questions? No surprises now: from part of a letter written to some people living in Rome.

So what is this letter written to Rome? What’s so special about it? Let me share part of it:

I consider that our present sufferings are not worth comparing with the glory that will be revealed in us. The creation [that is the whole universe] eagerly waits for the children of God to be revealed. For the creation was subject to frustration… in hope that the creation itself will be liberated from its bondage to decay and brought into the glorious freedom and glory of the children of God.

These words keep you going when your Dad is seriously sick, make for interesting conversation with your Regent friends, and provide answers to questions like: was it all worth it? These words are about a sure hope. Not that we’ll die and float off to heaven and be happy forever after. Sorry… the Christian hope is SO MUCH GREATER THAN THIS!! Rather, that God will renew all of creation! Or as Tom Wright puts it: God will put the world to right. Then there will be no more cancer…no more suffering… no more pain.

These words also motivate me because anything I do which contributes to this vision will ultimately not be lost; it will be included by God in his renewal of all creation.

In my final message to the people of that little church, which I mentioned earlier, I shared with them these words:

I think it’s important to note that God will not throw creation in the bin and start again. Rather he will liberate creation, setting it free; God will renew creation. This is important because everything that we have done which has contributed to the building of God’s Kingdom – whether that be helping those in need or taking care of our environment – will be saved and kept for the glory of God.

I’m happy to be on this road. Care to join me?

Nathan

Guinness, Jam & Grace

We have a couple more weeks before exams, so we are nearing the end of our first semester at Regent. Along with the increase in assignments has been an increase in social activities to relieve the stress levels!

St Patrick's Day was good excuse for a party so we joined our friends, Claire, April, and Holly at Claire's house (along with all her housemates) for an Irish evening. We had a lovely meal of "bangers & mash", some Guinness, and Irish tea & coffee. Then we watched "In the Name of the Father", an Irish movie about the Guilford Four and the effort to clear their names. A very good evening. Click on the Our Web Photos link on the right-hand panel to see some pictures.

We have also spent a couple of Sunday lunches, after church, at public markets on Granville Island and Lonsdale Quay. We also had a pleasant evening with a couple from church, Steve and Altaire, when they bravely invited five Regent students for dinner. We had a great meal and some intense discussions.

Nathan also made some yummy strawberry jam last week. The produce here is quite cheap so we made the equivalent volume of delicious strawberry jam for the same cost as nasty cheap raspberry jam! And here's the picture to prove that Nathan did it, not Bronwyn! Gingerbeer is his next culinary project to be completed (and consumed).

Yesterday we went with some friends to see the film, Amazing Grace. It is about William Wilberforce's campaign to abolish slavery in Britain and her colonies. It is an excellent movie and we highly recommend seeing it if it screens in NZ (or elsewhere, for that matter!) Here is a link to the North American site, where you can view the 'trailer'. http://www.amazinggracemovie.com/index.php

We are looking forward to our trip back to New Zealand over the "summer break" for work and family time. Even though we'll struggle to get a tan in the New Zealand winter we're pretty sure we'll experience less rain than in Vancouver. Plus our umbrellas are likely to be redundant in Wellington!

Spring has Sprung!

While the temperature is still fluctuating (a lot!) spring is definitely springing forth, here in Vancouver. Daylight savings has started this week so progress is underway towards summer. We've had a few truly beautiful days with clear skies and warm breezes, but generally an umbrella is required when leaving the house - spring rains to add to the winter ones!

As usual, we've been busy with schoolwork. The end of the semester is not far away so assignments are falling due with regularity! Nathan has been working on a paper about John Stott for his history course and Bronwyn is making progress on a paper about equipping laypeople for pastoral care. The research for both has been interesting, yet the excitement wanes when we need to decide exactly what we can fit into the word-limit for a piece of work. That can be frustrating! Nathan has also been wrestling with some problems in philosophical theology!!!!

The last two weeks have been A Celebration of the Arts at Regent. There have been lunchtime concerts, workshops, evening events and a display in the gallery on campus. We haven't been able to take part in much (because we're busy) but the building is looking very colourful at the moment. On Tuesdays we have a chapel service at 11am. This past week we had a special 'Offering of the Arts' in chapel involving drama, poetry, singing and a group playing Bach. It was great! Chapel is followed by a community lunch (of soup) and then people gather in community groups ( a bit like Bible study groups, but more social). It was our group's turn to help on soup duty this past week so we missed the end of chapel but helped make soup for 200 or so people and serve it. Split pea & prosciutto, with croutons and parmesan - yummmmmm!

We also had a craving for an 'olde style family dinner' so we invited our friends, Claire & April, around for a roast. In lieu of kumara we had sweet potatoes, called yams here (and very similar to orange kumara). When we explained this to April (an American) we couldn't really explain what are the things we call yams in NZ! She also hadn't tasted parsnip before so that was a new experience for her.

Bronwyn has also been filling in spare moments with some patchwork. She's started a quilt with flannel material (as a couch throw or blanket when reading) and has been making lots of lovely squares. Post-it notes have taken on a new use as templates. Nathan hopes they'll be made into something before she starts any other projects!

Taste of the World

We are now halfway through our first semester here. It has flown by at super-sonic speed! We are both enjoying our courses and we're slowly getting used to the reading load. Assignments are coming on thick and fast now. This coming week is our Reading Week (that means study week NOT spring break!) and we need it.

We haven't spent every single minute studying - despite what it feels like. One Saturday each year (10 Feb) Regent hosts a giant pot-luck dinner known as "Taste of the World". Students are grouped by nationality or continent (Australia & New Zealand - how about our blue-creamed pavlova as a symbol of cross-Tasman co-operation?, Asia, Africa, UK, Europe, USA, & Canada) and we co-ordinate to bring food that is typically from our home. We took lamingtons which disappeared quickly from the table. (Warning! The smaller you cut the sponge cake, the longer it takes to dip & coat them!) Have a look at the photos on the link at the end to discover some of the other culinary delights on offer. Once grace was said, it was a flurry of activity as people circulated around the tables, sampling lots of different things. After the food, we gathered in the chapel and had entertainment from those who were brave enough to share their culture. We just enjoyed the fun of Canadian-US banter, African dance, Japanese physical exercises, Salsa dancing lessons (try doing that in a auditorium!), and the embodiment of "an Englishman, an Irishman, and a Scot..." jokes.

Bronwyn had a great afternoon out yesterday (17 Feb) with a group of girls who had "Tea and Nibbles". We had tea from teacups (what a luxury), plenty of laughs and a fantastic sharing time. A real 'girly' time.

Today was the first fine Sunday we can remember so we ventured out to the beach. Most of Vancouver had the same idea but it was wonderful to have some exercise and see further than the clouds usually allow! We happened across a film set on the beach of a wrecked aircraft, for which film we don't know but it was a bit of a novelty!

The marked seasons mean that bulbs are a big feature of gardens here. It has been uplifting to see the snowdrops and crocuses appear and unfold to the sun each day. Our neighbour's lawn is littered with crocuses so it is a joy to see them out. The promise of less rain seems a little more realistic then! We saw, for the first time today, a tree with spring blossom.

Enjoy some more photos by clicking on this link:
http://picasaweb.google.com/n.b.mclellan/TasteOfTheWorldAfternoonTeaJerichoBeach

Settling into Vancouver

Hello, eh?

This is the Canadian greeting, according to the poster of many languages at our welcome desk at college in the first week! The Canadians apparently tag “eh” on to the end of sentences all the time. We’ll have to be careful; it may be catching, eh?

Well, we’re here in Vancouver at last. It took longer than expected to get here because an engine part had to be flown into Sydney from Canada. It meant a long day at Sydney airport, and a night at the Hilton (where we met Zion, who’d grown up in Rongotea!) before flying into Vancouver on the afternoon of the first day of orientation. Better late than never. We’ve made up for lost time and are right in the thick of things now. We’re anticipating an average of 5 hours reading a week per course and then classes and assignments on top.

Here is a picture to get you acquainted with our basement suite in Kitsilano – the expensive, hippie, artsy area east of the UBC campus. The bottom right window is in our bedroom so we have a “garden view”. This was taken on our first day of snow - there have been a few more since then. It's cold! We’ve settled in over the weeks and it now feels a bit more like home since we’ve had a few people over for coffee and hung some pictures. Bron’s already had to pass on the Edmond’s recipe for shortbread to a new friend. If you'd like to see some pictures of our place click on this link (Something new, we hope it works!) :

http://picasaweb.google.com/n.b.mclellan/OurHouse


Our first week here was busy but fun. We have kitted out our place and attended orientation. As well as absorbing most of the information shared by lecturers, a student panel and the orientation team we have enjoyed meeting lots of new people who are starting with us. We had a yummy communal lunch at college each day and then had a fun dessert evening at someone’s home one night. The dessert even resembled pavlova (with the addition of nuts and chocolate) – what a way to make us feel at home! Nath was feeling a bit run down by the weekend so Bron joined the Downtown group excursion on Saturday by herself. She took the seabus to North Vancouver, wandered the market [pictured] (only buying lunch – student budget now!) and then explored a little of Canada Place and Gastown.

Discussions at orientation convinced us that some course changes were advisable to keep information in sequence so here are our programmes for this term now.

Nathan: New Testament Foundations (a core paper) Wednesday
History of Christianity 2 (sequence not so important) Tues/Thurs
Systematic Theology A Wednesday

Bronwyn: New Testament Foundations (core for me, too) Wednesday
Pastoral Care Tuesday
Books, Children & God Wednesday

We have both signed up for a weekend seminar course on academic writing as a way of making sure we know the Regent way of doing things!

As you can see, our classes centre around the middle of the week so that leaves us time for tutorials, reading and assignments during the rest of our schedule. We also have Chapel and Community Groups (like home groups with a communal meal) on Tuesday so we have a chance to interact with the whole Regent community.

Top Tips for Travellers

1. Get a universal adapter if you are going to more than one power zone.
   This saves space and hassles! It is well worth the initial expense.
2. Pack a multi-plug.
   With only one adapter your digital camera and cell-phone are both are sure to run flat at the same time! (Not to mention anything else electrical you managed to fit in your suitcase.)
3. Keep a travel diary.
   Otherwise you won’t remember what you did last week when writing postcards. A mini roll of Sellotape to stick in ticket stubs, etc. is useful too.
4. Take travel packs of tissues.
   Who wants to hand-wash hankies? And ladies, you’ll thank me when you are stuck in a grotty public toilet with no loo paper!
5. Buy international calling cards to phone home.
   Depending on the card, you can pay as little as 1-2c per minute. Some let you call from a cell-phone for a higher rate but are still cheaper than using the local exchange. Be warned: some don’t work outside the country you buy them in so ask when you’re making the sale.
6. Take a thermos if you object to paying NZ$9 for a coffee!
   Most B&Bs/hotels in the UK have an electric jug in the room. With plenty of public parks to sit down in, it will save you heaps in incidental spending at cafés. In Europe a travel jug would be useful because they don’t seem to feature in the rooms and the hotel bar will happily charge you for a cuppa.
7. Take a stretchy elastic clothes-line and Sunlight soap for your washing.
   Laundromats can be expensive and hard to come by if you are moving around a bit. Irons and boards are only available occasionally so make use of them when you can or bring a travel iron if you can’t stand crinkly clothes. (Better yet, only pack items that don’t need ironing!)
8. Learn the words of a NZ song.
   You never know when an item might be required! The haka and Po Karekareana have served us well. An alternative may be kiwi pins, badges, mini flags, poi… as gifts for people you meet. (All Blacks and Lord of the Rings are current points of knowledge about NZ too).
9. If you don’t speak the language, at least learn hello, please, and thank you.
   It is amazing how much difference in service it can make when added to a smile!
10. If you love it (and can afford it), buy it!
    You may never find one “just a little cheaper” and then you’ll regret not getting it the first time. We found it useful to decide beforehand what our “expensive” purchases would be. (It is much easier to resist “impulse buying” when you know that you are yet to buy the cuckoo clock you wanted.)
11. Use discount cards.
    If you are a student, get an International ID card…NOW! We’ve been told a NZ Heritage member card can also get you into English Heritage sites at a reduced rate or free. Hotel foyers often have maps or flyers that give discounts to local attractions. Multi-trip tickets can save quite a bit if you are in one place for a while (e.g. Oyster cards on the London Underground)
12. Consider accommodation alternatives.
    If you are keen on hostelling, consider whether it is worth an extra ₤10-15 for a B&B where you are given breakfast, have an ensuite bathroom to yourself and the bed is more than a foam mattress on a bunk.

Our new home

We've spent just over a week in Vancouver; finding a place to live, opening a bank account, exploring our new neighbourhood, and growing accustomed to the weather patterns!


The day before we arrived there was a BIG storm so there were leaves everywhere and it rained a lot. (Read: it rained almost constantly!) The city is under a "boil water advisory" so we've probably seen the worst of what our new home will be like. So far, we like it, despite the worst blip in the weather pattern for as long as most can remember! Here is a photo looking towards the hills of North Vancouver.

We've found a nice, warm, dry basement suite to live in. It has two bedrooms (we're anticpating a few guests!) and our landlord is an ex-Regent College student. His brother-in-law lives above us in the house with his wife (who is Australian - the closest thing to a NZer) and two small children. Everyone seems really friendly so we are looking forward to getting to know them in the coming months. We're only a minute's walk from the bus-stop for the UBC campus and not far from the neighbourhood shops.











Nathan celebrated his 30th birthday the other day. Since all of you weren't able to join us, God whipped up a few million snowflakes instead - an unseasonable white-out of at least a few inches! Here's the birthday boy as we walked home from the movies... and a few shots of the street where we've been staying.

Turkey Part 7

The morning we left Cappadocia it began to snow. We were glad of our nice, warm bus when we stopped (briefly) at a caravansaray – the original version of a motel stop when camels could only travel 40km per day along the Silk Road. Boy, it was cold! (See snow in picture!) As we travelled north to Ankara the roads became more treacherous and we saw at least 6 accidents in a couple of hours. Our driver was terrific and got us safely to the capital city, in time to visit the Ataturk Mausoleum & Museum, and the Anatolian Museum. Both were interesting but we would have liked to spend longer at the Ataturk Museum (pictured).

We then went on to Bursa, famous for its textiles. We saw the Grand Mosque and were there at the end of prayer time. (That was rather eerie!) Bronwyn’s highlight of the city was a traditional Turkish bath. Think: sauna, HOT bath, scrub down with a glove like a loofah, a foamy massage and rinse = three less layers of skin!

Finally we arrived back in Istanbul. We visited the spice bazaar in the evening to take in the smells and sights. It was much like the grand bazaar but with more food! Then on we went to our farewell dinner. We had some yummy salad, cheese, hot hummus, kebabs, and a sweet dessert which contained melted cheese! Nathan performed a haka and Bronwyn sang Po Karekare Ana with the other kiwis. Lots of goodbyes with our new friends before bed as the American were leaving at 3am – lucky them!

Here are our new friends from our Neon tour:

Turkey Part 6

Cappadocia was magical but very hard to describe! Our first visit was to the underground city of Kaymakli, one of many in the region. It was dug from the volcanic tufa soil by 6th century Christians hiding from the marauding Arabs. It was 6 storeys deep, containing stables, kitchens, cemeteries, wells, wineries, a church, as well as living quarters. It was a rabbit warren of narrow, winding tunnels leading to different parts of the city. This was mainly for defence purposes: if discovered by the enemy, the tunnels provided ample opportunities for disorienting and ambushing the intruders. Even the air vents had large round stones that could be rolled across the openings yet still let air through.

Then we visited Goreme, a Greek Orthodox monastery hewn from within the volcanic rocks in a valley. The landscape looked surreal, like some sort of Disney fantasy world. A number of churches were part of the monastery. Each had painted walls, some with 6th century stylized symbols that helped tell the gospel stories, others with 13th century frescoes of biblical saints and local saints (such as St Basil, St George, Emperor Constatine and his mother). We even found a chapel dedicated to Onesimus!

In the afternoon we visited Avenos, a small town famed for its pottery. The factory we visited showed us how they make their wares on electric and traditional ‘kick’ wheels. The time taken to intricately decorate each piece by hand was reflected in the prices – a 15x15cm tile would have set us back over $NZ1000! Sorry, no Christmas pressies from that shop.

Turkey Part 5

Our time in Antalya was very relaxing: a nice hotel, a sea view and not long on the bus for a day! We visited Perge and Aspendos. Perge had the most intact Roman Baths we’ve seen to date and a cistern in the centre of the agora (town square) that supplied the water to the different parts of town. Investigations have revealed that if the water level dropped in the cistern, first the poor part of town lost their water supply, then the wealthy part of town, then the palace and lastly the public fountains! At least one could always collect water from the fountain I suppose. (Check out the pipe holes at the left of the photo.)

Aspendos had a stunning amphitheatre. It is the best preserved one known. The backdrop wall is still standing and the theatre is used regularly for theatre and dance performances. You literally could hear a pin drop – if everyone else wasn’t talking, that is. OSH might not let you climb to the top seats if this was in NZ, but in Turkey, it’s safer than crossing the road!

We drove for a LONG time the next day, via Konya to Cappadocia. In Konya we stopped to visit the Mevlana Museum. This museum was originally the mosque and monastery for an Islamic sect known as the whirling dervishes. They spin on the spot as a form of meditation. This is where their leader, Mevlana, is buried and we also saw some beautiful calligraphy, and walked across a 16th century silk carpet that looked hardly worn.

Turkey Part 4

The next ancient city we visited was Ephesus. It has only had 20% excavated but this is still more than any other archaeological site in the world. The highlights included a library and a huge amphitheatre, seating at least 30,000 people. More than the remains of the city, the experience of being where St Paul worked and lived for awhile (see Acts 19) – and where he wrote his letter to the Ephesian church – helped bring this part of the Bible alive.

The next day rained!!! Our weather up to this point had been fantastic so our trip to Aphrodisias was cut a bit short. We still saw the site of the temple to Aphrodite (converted to a church but now in ruins) and the amazing stadium. We could see the entrances for the gladiators and the pit cages where wild animals were kept to fight them. There was also a division at the floor level between the gladiatorial area and the larger area where chariot races were held.

We stopped the night in Pammukale. The area is known for its mineral springs and we enjoyed the natural hot pools at our hotel. The next morning we visited the calcium terraces (formed much the same way as the pink and white terraces were in Rotorua or Puente del Inka in Argentina). The water was warm where it first emerged but cooled very quickly as it ran down the slope. The ancient city of Hieropolis was nearby and its main features were the city gates (one obviously Byzantine, with a cross on the keystone) and the Roman baths that were converted to a church at one stage. Maybe it was the warmest place during the winter! You may be interested to know that Hieropolis is mentioned at the end of Paul’s letter to the Colossians (and check out his letter to Philemon as well! Do you see the connection?)

Then we drove over the mountain range to Antalya. A special stop was made where we could see the goat-hair tents of a nomadic family (convinced to stay for the sake of tourists!) The weave was quite coarse so the soot from the fire inside the tent used to create a seal from the weather. Nowadays clear polythene over the top does the trick, though I’m not sure I would want to spend the winter in one of these.

Turkey Part 3

After the night in Canakkale, we visited the ancient city of Troy. Excavations have revealed at least 9 cities at the site, built on top of each other as its fortunes waxed and waned. We saw original sun-dried bricks made from clay and straw, and the ramp where the Trojan horse was supposedly dragged into the city. A replica horse (made in the 1960’s) stands at the sites entrance and reminded Bronwyn of the “Dino” dinosaur at Wanganui’s Kowhai Park when we climbed inside for our photo! The horse from the recent movie ‘Troy’ stands near the ferry terminal at Canakkale.

The same day we visited Pergamum on our way to Kusadasi. The ruins of the city stand on a hill overlooking the valleys that surround it. We saw temple ruins, the site of the massive altar to Zeus (now in a Berlin museum), and rows of ‘depots’ or storehouses for food. The amphitheatre was spectacular as it was built into the natural steep slope of the hill. When some helicopters flew overhead as we sat there, the acoustics were magnificent, even without the wall behind the ‘stage’ area. At one point the wailing call to prayer drifted up from the town at the bottom of the hill, this was when our guide (Semih) began to read the letter from Revelation to the church at Pergamum!

Turkey Part 2

We travelled to the Gallipoli Peninsula the next day. We had lunch in the township of Gelibolu (Gallipoli) picking our fish from the counter and then eating it on the waterfront, overlooking the Dardanelles. Then we drove to the Aegean side of the peninsula, visiting ANZAC Cove (below), where the allied troops landed, and then memorials at Lone Pine Cemetery, Chunuk Bair (left) and the local museum. It was more emotional than we expected, seeing the futility of the Allies’ position and the “ideal” site where they should have landed. We felt very connected to our NZ history that day and it was great to have another 2 couples, Kiwi and Australian, to share it with.

Here is another of Nathan’s poems:

As I approach the Aegean Sea
One word resounds within: Gallipoli
And soil red reminds me of men fallen
Motivated by duty to their Monarch, Nation and Maker

As I stand in ANZAC Cove
Inexplicable tears rise, like the terrain reaching to heights above
And thoughts come crashing in
Like the men who stormed these pebbled shores:

Another’s war
Grand plans gone wrong
Human folly
A misjudged landing
The cutting of apron strings
The birth of a nation’s identity

As I stand at Chunuk Bair and gaze at my country’s memorial towering there
Another voice reminds me of others who fell in shared ground
Foes then, but friends now
And the shared experience that gave birth to the nation I stand in now

As I leave the Aegean Sea and the hills behind
I remember those who gave their lives
And hope, beyond all hopes
That their memory will live on!

Turkey Update

Our first day in Turkey was a whirlwind of sightseeing. We began in the old quarter of Istanbul city and visited the Hippodrome, where chariot races were once held. Right next to the site is the Blue Mosque, named for the beautiful blue tiles that line its interior walls. They had gorgeous shades of aquamarine, turquoise, royal and navy blues and many different designs including tulips and carnations (the national flowers).
Then we moved on to Hagia Sofia Museum, a church that was converted to a mosque that was converted to a museum! It had some stunning gold mosaics of Christian saints that were being uncovered from the plaster walls and ceilings, where the Muslims had covered them 600 years ago. There was also evidence of Christian symbols in the stonework, but many of these were also defaced.

The next stop was the famous Topkapi Palace, home to the Ottoman sultans. Much of the artifacts collected there were royal gifts, spoils of war and Muslim relics. We’ve seen the rod of Moses, David’s sword, Joseph’s turban and Mohammed’s cast footprint! By far, the most interesting exhibits were the clothes and furnishings that had survived, and a collection of Ming Dynasty china that included green-glazed dishes that apparently turned red and cracked if the food contained poison – very popular with the sultans for some reason!

After lunch we were taken to the Grand Bazaar, a rabbit warren of shops selling jewellery, leather goods, souvenirs, sparkly fabric (no patchwork cotton, unfortunately), clothes, and apple tea. We had seen a similar bazaar in Kusadasi so we got off lightly, only buying a pair of Turkish slippers!

Our afternoon was enriched by a cruise along the Bosphorus, our guide pointing out Ottoman palaces, a fortress and bridges that spanned between the European and Asian continents. Our evening was topped off with a dinner and belly-dancing show. The food was delicious and the entertainment hilarious.

European Highlights - Last leg!

The change when we entered Austria was stark. It is one of the most beautiful places we’ve been. The forests had lots of deciduous trees scattered through the evergreens and autumn had definitely set in. Because of damage in various wars, many of the buildings were more modern in style, but still mostly in stone. It also seemed so clean and orderly after Italy. We visited Salzburg, Mozart’s birthplace and Sound of Music territory, and went up to Eagles’ Nest (Hitler’s retreat that overlooked the Austrian and German mountains - pictured). The time traveling through Switzerland, Liechtenstein, Germany, the Netherlands and Belgium went very quickly. We enjoyed lots of food (fondue, chocolate, sausages) and at various times were entertained by yodeling, alpine horn playing, and dancing. Here is one of the views from the top of Mt Stanserhorn and of the the Chapel Bridge in Lucerne (both in Switzerland).
In many ways it was not enough time and we are sad it is over (for now) but we have so many great memories and new friends.

European Highlights - Venice

After four days of glorious food and (watered down) cocktails on our cruise we climbed back on the bus and headed back to Italy. Venice was one of our favourite stops. The islands that make up this famous city were beautiful and we would like to go back one day!

It was a novelty getting around by water taxi but Bronwyn is glad she doesn’t have to ride in a gondola every day – they wobble too much! We visited St Marco's Square, the Rialto Bridge (above) and saw some lovely Venetian glass.

Our excursion that day took us to Burano, a small island, famous for its brightly coloured buildings and intricate lace.

European Highlights - Greece & Turkey

Our halfway point was in Greece. We visited the Acropolis and had a yummy dinner in the Plaka district. We saw the changing of the guard in front of the tomb of the unknown soldier and heard a demonstration by teachers wanting a 40% pay increase. (No, that's not a typo!)

We had a very relaxing time on a cruise among the Greek Islands. We had a plush cabin on the top deck of the ship that overlooked the bow – with a fantastic view, of course! Mykonos (these pictures), Rhodes, Kusadasi (Turkey) and Patmos were our stops. Patmos was where St John the Evangelist was exiled towards the end of his life, so we went to see the chapel at the cave where tradition says he recorded the book of Revelation. Kusadasi has whet our appetite for seeing more of Turkey, particularly some of the biblical sites, so we are looking forward to visiting in a week’s time.